What Are Coils In Hair Exactly?
Coils are tight, spring-like curls naturally forming in textured hair, especially in Type 4 hair. They’re small, dense, and can look like zig-zags, spirals, or stretched-out S’s.
Picture a slinky or the curl of an old-school telephone cord. Coily hair usually grows up and out rather than down, and it shrinks a lot when dry, sometimes making it look way shorter than it is.
It’s also super elastic; give a coil a gentle tug and it’ll snap right back into place. Now that you know what coils are, let’s get into the details.
What Are Coil Hair In Hair Type?
Not all coils look the same. Some are super tight, almost forming tiny zigzags, while others wrap around themselves in little corkscrews.
That’s why you’ll often hear terms like 4A, 4B, and 4C—these classifications describe how tight or defined the coils are.
Here’s a simple breakdown:
4A Coils: These are the loosest of the bunch. Picture tiny, well-defined corkscrews with a visible curl pattern. If you stretch them out, they look like little spirals, kind of like the spring inside a pen.
4B Coils: This type has a more zigzag shape than a defined curl. Instead of spirals, the strands bend at sharp angles, making the texture look fluffy and voluminous.
4C Coils: The tightest and most densely packed of them all. 4C coils shrink the most, sometimes up to 75% of their actual length.
Are Coily Hair Types of Curly Hair?
Not exactly. Coily hair and curly hair both fall under the textured hair family, but they aren’t the same.
Curly hair usually forms looser, more defined ringlets, while coily hair creates much tighter, smaller spirals or zigzag patterns.
If you imagine curls as stretched-out springs, coils are more like tiny, tight corkscrews.
Coils also shrink a lot more than curls and often need extra help (like styling or product) to clump into well-defined shapes.
Plus, because the coil pattern is so tight, it’s harder for natural oils to coat the strands, meaning coily hair usually needs more moisture to stay healthy.
Finger Coils And Coily Hair
Coily hair is a natural hair texture—tight, springy curls that grow that way straight from the scalp.
Finger coils, on the other hand, are a styling method. You use your fingers to twist sections of hair into tight spirals, creating a coily look even if your hair isn’t naturally that texture.
In short, coily hair happens naturally, finger coils are something you create.
How to Do Finger Coils:
- Start with clean, damp hair. Wash and condition like you normally would. Finger coils work best on damp, detangled hair, so grab a leave-in conditioner or curl cream to add slip.
- Section your hair. The smaller the sections, the tighter the coils. Use clips to stay organized.
- Apply a styling product. Smooth a curl cream, gel, or mousse through each section. This helps the coils hold their shape.
- Twist with your fingers. Take a small piece of hair and twirl it around your finger from root to tip. Keep twisting until it naturally coils.
- Let it set. Air-dry if you can, or use a diffuser if you’re short on time. Once dry, you can separate the coils for more volume or leave them tight and defined.
How to Care for Coils?
Because of their tight structure, coils can be prone to dryness, shrinkage, and tangling.
But don’t worry! With the right routine, your coils will stay hydrated and happy.
1. Moisture Is Everything
Coils love moisture, but they also lose it fast. Hydrate regularly with water-based leave-in conditioners and follow up with oils or butters (like shea butter or jojoba oil) to seal it in. The LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) method works wonders.
2. Gentle Detangling Only
Dry detangling? A nightmare. Always detangle when your hair is damp and coated with conditioner. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to avoid breakage—coils are delicate!
3. Protective Styling Helps
Styles like twists, braids, and Bantu knots keep coils stretched and prevent excessive tangling. Plus, they help retain moisture and give you a break from daily styling.
4. Wash with Care
Sulfate shampoos? No thanks. They strip too much moisture. Use a gentle, moisturizing shampoo or a co-wash to keep your hair clean without drying it out.
5. Sleep Smart
Cotton pillowcases suck up moisture and cause friction, leading to dryness and frizz. A satin or silk bonnet, scarf, or pillowcase keeps your coils intact while you sleep.
6. Trim When Needed
Coils can hide split ends, but they’re still there! Trim regularly to prevent breakage and keep your hair looking healthy.
With the right care, coils can thrive—bouncy, soft, and full of life.
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